Our trip began with flying from Suvarnabhumi to Krabi International Airport. Krabi lies on the south-west coast of Thailand and is located 8º above the equator, with pristine tropical rainforests and mangroves and features distinctive rocky outcrops known as limestone karst. Krabi town is a bustling fishing port, on the mouth of the Krabi River and the journey along the coast to the beaches of Ao Nang and the pier is ½ hour. We decided to hire our own private mini van to drive us to Ao Nang beach where we picked up a long tail boat to the jagged peninsula of Railay, where there are spectacular clear bays with lush limestone cliffs that drop right into the blue sea. We were having five days on this peaceful beach, so Islay, Fiona, Nicky and Sean could wind down after stressful work at university in the UK. The recently completed Railay Village Resort rooms exemplify modern Thai elegance and we found the staff very friendly and accommodating. The rooms are built around a 40m swimming pool with immaculate gardens. Islay and Nicky used Kontiki Scuba Diving in Ao Nang for a well organised professional two day PADI diving course. The rest of us were able to join them for a day trip to the Phi Phi Islands where they did their inaugural dive and we snorkelled. Another day saw them rock climbing, whilst the rest of us canoed and explored Diamond Cave with its “golden stone waterfall” so called because of the sparkling quartz in the stalactites.
We returned to Bangkok for two nights and spent three nights in Hua Hin, before heading off for the Andaman Coast, driving from the Gulf of Thailand towards Chumphon on Highway 4, stopping in Ranong (a small and provincial capital; noting some residents wearing sarongs – the Burmese longyi for lunch then to Phang Nga Bay Resort Hotel which is in the Raman Forest Park for a night. Rooms are plain, clean and air conditioned and boast great views across the estuary, where we spotted crab eating macaques and watched long tail boats plough up and down stream. The Phang-Nga region is known for its abundance of verdant limestone cliffs, odd rock formations, karst caves and turquoise waters. Next morning , in a hired long tail boat, we headed for the famous James Bond Island which looks much smaller than in the film. We stopped here for a cold drink and to take photos, then onto Ko Pang Nyee for lunch. This is the sea gypsies’ village and we were all in awe of how these houses were built on stilts in the sea - and how normal life carries on.
Our next stop after 3 hours driving, was Trang. First thing you notice here are the Chinese signs, because of its large Chinese population. We spent the night at the Thumrin Hotel, centrally located close to the railway station, with plain, clean and adequate air conditioned rooms. From Trang, we drove to the Province of Satun, which is the Andaman coast’s southernmost province. Satun is a Malay word and 66% of the population is Muslim most of who still speak Malay as a first language. Main industries here include fishing, rubber and palm oil.
The boats to the islands of Mu Ko Petra and Tarutao National Parks leave from Pak Bara pier. National Park fees are paid before leaving the pier. Our friend Aladdin had organised a private speed boat for us so, armed with lunch, fruit, water and pop, we set off. First island was Ko Bulon Mai Pai (25 minutes from Pak Bara). A snorkelling trail may be developed on the east side of the beach so Rowan was straight into the sea to check it out. The waters here are an amazing turquoise colour, and so clear you can see the fish and coral without getting off the boat. There is also a ranger station, picnic area and shower. There was fresh water running which is always a great welcome after a swim in the sea. After lunch ,we snorkelled on the west side of the beach.
Next island was Ko Bulon Rang and snorkelling was good here, deeper at 15m – it was like swimming in a huge aquarium, with many schools of different fish. We then headed for Ko Lipe, where we were spending two nights at the LeePae Resort. Ko Lipe is the home of the Chao Le (sea gypsies) who traditionally roamed the islands harvesting fish, shellfish, coconuts and vegetables. This island falls outside the protection of the national park and is being rapidly developed as a result. Hat Pattaya on the southern coast is crammed with resorts. These resorts close from May to October, when the boats stop running due to heavy monsoon seas.
Next day was spent on and off these next few islands: Sa Maung – with its balancing rock; Ko Hin Ngam – a tiny island with beautiful stripy pebbles but we are told to resist the temptation to take any home as those who have done so in the past have suffered the curse of the ghost of Ko Hin Ngam!!; Ko Rok Roi, with lots of fishes swimming around our feet in shallow water; Ko Butang – terrific snorkelling and here Rowan spotted a lion fish; Ko Rawi which has a coral reef snorkelling trail, with a waterproof information board with pictures of coral and fish. Camping is allowed with permission from the national park authorities. Next was Ko Andang an island of densely forested hills, white-sand beaches, beautiful drift wood and healthy coral reefs. On our way back to Lipe we spotted a school of bottle nose dolphins.
Next morning, we stopped at Ko Khai ,which is famous for its natural rock arch and snow white beach. Not much snorkelling here, but ever so peaceful and great picture postcard views of white sand and blue sea. Our last island was Ko Tarutao, which is the largest island in Ko Tarutao Marine National Park and is an example of how tourism should be done, with a small government-run visitors centre and a limited number of cottages and dormitories. Tarutao has some history to it as, in 1938, it became a prison island. Common criminals were imprisoned at Talo Wow on the east coast, whilst important political prisoners were detained at Talo Udang at the southern tip. The fear of crocodiles and sharks in the surrounding seas ensured that few people escaped, but disaster struck during World War II as food and medical supplies failed to reach this remote outpost. In desperation, criminals and some of the guards raided passing merchant ships and discovered riches far beyond their expectations and so the blood-thirsty piracy began. Tarutao National Park is a group of 51 islands in the Andaman Sea, near to the Malaysian border. Tarutao’s forests are home to bats, squirrels, dusky langurs, crab-eating macaques, mouse deer, wild boar and otters. Bird species include hornbills, kingfishers, brahminy kites, drongos, and reef egrets. Dugongs have occasionally been spotted in this region and there are also four species of sea turtles.