When my two Aussie friends suggested going to Vietnam I jumped at the opportunity, especially as I could just arrive with a suitcase and not have to plan anything. My expectations were somewhat unclear: how easy would it be to travel; what kind of places are open for tourists; how easy would it be in a communist country? I need not have worried as we had an amazing time and, although in many places tourism is still in its infancy, that is what we found most appealing.
We began in Hanoi. We had booked into the Hanoi Opera Hilton - so named because of its proximity to the Opera House. It is a truly lovely hotel with a very stylish art deco entrance lobby. 
Each evening we were treated to a string quartet playing. The acoustics are great and it is such a lovely way to unwind after a hard day’s shopping or sight seeing!
We were lucky enough to be able to go to the Opera House to hear the Vietnamese Symphony Orchestra play in honour of Norway Constitution Day. Check out what is on because The Opera House is beautiful inside, reminiscent of a bygone era of French Colonism. After only a couple of nights we were booked on the overnight express to Sapa in the far north, situated in the foothills of the border of Vietnam and China. We thought it was a very worthwhile experience - not quite Orient Express but not bad either! We had a sleeper compartment, wood lined comfortable bunks but very cold air conditioning so it was a little difficult to sleep. However, there was a very smart dining car in which was served an excellent meal and a very nice glass of wine that we thought might be of advantage to help us sleep! The carriage that we travelled in was part of a package put together by the Victoria Hotel in Sapa. This hotel is French and part of a small group of similar hotels scattered throughout Vietnam. It was comfortable, looked very like a Swiss chalet, served excellent food and had friendly and attentive staff.
The scenery is truly magnificent with looming hills all around, clear fresh air and about 10% cooler than in Hanoi. The local population is of the H’Mong ethnic grouping. They were all dressed in national costume whether walking in the streets or working in the fields and they made a striking and colourful picture. They still largely farm and the hillsides are tiered in rice terraces. There is, however, a lot of poverty and although this all looked charming, their lives are anything but comfortable.
My friend and I chose to go on a day’s trek with an English speaking guide. This is not for the faint-hearted as there was a lot of climbing and it was incredibly hot, but it was so interesting to get a first hand glimpse at a way of life which, because of tourism, may soon be drastically altered. Our glimpse into very basic homes, even a school, was met everywhere with friendly smiles but made our hearts ache at the poverty all around. We were cooked a simple lunch by our guide in one of the small homes and we had a chance to sit and talk to him. He had chosen to opt out for a year after doing an accountancy degree in Hanoi and was very personable and informative.
All the walks could be arranged through the hotel or maps are available and you could try and do your own thing. Sapa is a small market town with a big, central square and fountain. This is turned on nightly and you can sit outside one of the small bistro type restaurants and watch the town amble by ‘fait le promenade’, very French style.
After another three or four days in Hanoi (plenty more shopping, a visit to the Fine Arts Museum and the Hanoi Hilton Jail ) we ventured south and west to a Heritage Area, Halong Bay, noted for the limestone outcrops. It was stunningly beautiful - all those tiny craggy islands in a sea of turquoise blue and the promise of a night on a large wooden junk type boat. There was a rather alarming walking the plank exercise to get aboard but once there it was charming. (I should have mentioned that the whole of this trip was arranged through the tourist desk in the Hanoi Hilton lobby.) The food was excellent, the cabins air conditioned and comfortable with small ensuite bathrooms. There were pleasant sitting areas and we had a couple of optional stops at very spectacular caves in the 24 hours we were aboard and we could swim when we stopped for the evening. It really was a relaxing and pleasurable experience.
The next stage of our adventure involved us being picked up from the Junk and taken by small water taxi (3 ½ hours) to Catbar Island. This apparently is quite a favourite resort with weekenders from Hanoi. It was again really lovely, some spectacular beaches and some wonderful views. We took a taxi tour from one of the young operators along the water front and had a rare opportunity to meet his family on their small farm. Our guide was truly charming and so were his family. They provided us with lunch, for which we saw them catch the fish in their pond, cut fresh vegetables and picked fruit from the numerous trees in their yard. We had lunch alfresco under the trees, and discussed how their lives had altered in the last 20 years.It really was such a special treat. We felt that everyone was genuinely interested and pleased to be of service not the jaded outlook that comes with over-exposure to too many tourists.
We had an extraordinary trip back to Hanoi on a Russian built hydrofoil, then picked up by bus at the port and a 2 ½ hour drive back. There really was so much to see and do. My only advice would be to avoid the hottest months of May, June & July as Hanoi seemed even hotter than Bangkok!!