Surprising Seoul
Early this year, Australia's Tourism authorities launched a new tourism campaign aimed at overseas travellers, with the slogan: "Where the bloody hell are you?" (which got them into a spot of trouble with the British authorities, who frowned upon the b-word, which in turn led to many Australian jokes.).
Walking the broad, clean, often leafy, pedestrian-friendly pavements of Seoul, I found myself also asking those absent foreign travellers: "But where are you?" I felt like sharing Seoul's delights with others who, like me, didn't expect Seoul to be, well, quite so soulful.
At one of the many friendly tourist information kiosks scattered throughout the city, I picked up a very handy brochure listing "Seoul's Best 100", and enthusiastically started working on the 100 places to see/things to do. There are a number of beautifully restored, dignified royal palaces one can visit. Though they are all fine examples of the architecture of the Joseon Dynasty, each one has its own unique character. Delightful palace gardens with bridges, pavilions, streams, ponds filled with water lilies are true fairytale material, and were designed to blend in beautifully with the surrounding hills and woodland.
Changdeokgung Palace is a World Cultural Heritage site, as is the Jongmyo Royal Ancestral Shrine. The colourful "Changing of the Royal Guards" ceremonies are steeped in tradition, right down to the last drum-beat.
Then there is of course the shopping: grandiose giant malls and arcades, floor upon floor of shops with brand names and department stores. Alternatively, there are markets, and some of them come truly alive late at night. Namdaemun Market (rock bottom prices, enormous variety of goods) is open round the clock, but is at its busiest after midnight. Asia's largest shopping area for electronic products is found at the Yongsan Electronics Market.
Seoul has a lively art & culture scene, and an excellent Arts Centre, which includes a Music Hall. The Insadong District is an area with alleys which blend the traditional and the modern: craft shops, art galleries, antique shops, traditional restaurants and tea shops, even a place to sample Temple Cuisine. my favourite part of town. For a further taste of Korean culture, there are Korean Folk Villages, museums, dinner theatres (traditional music and dances), cooking lessons, pottery villages, taekwondo demonstrations and much more.
Popular traditional shopping items include paper craft, paintings, porcelain, ginseng products, paper fans, masks, traditional costumes, antiques, teas & tea sets.
Travelling around the city is really easy, thanks to the very efficient subway rail system with 8 colour-coded lines. I always managed to reach my destinations using the train, but a good bus system complements the rail network (one can use the same travel card on the buses and trains), and taxis are plentiful, but not the cheapest mode of transport. "Entertainment" on the trains is provided by the vendors who move from carriage to carriage, loudly demonstrating their wares, from umbrellas to vegetable peelers, toys, luggage, etc.
One can also go on ferry rides on the Han River. Needless to say, I did not cover all 100 must-see/do items! The aim was anyway just to savour the essence of the city, not necessarily to skim as many tourist spots as possible. And the pleasure of finding unexpected and unusual pleasures not mentioned in guidebooks is always so rewarding. So, for instance, I treasured the traditional tea ceremony that was "performed" on me in a tea museum I thirstily stumbled upon, and I found myself intrigued when I stood gazing at the stone structure in which a prince's placenta was buried. I entered a sword and knife gallery on impulse, and wandered amongst swords used in well-known movies and other unusual blade instruments. There were many more fascinating moments...
A colourful tapestry of experiences indeed! Seoul is definitely worth a visit. It has a rich variety of things to do, is well organised, welcoming and friendly, and certainly ready and prepared for foreign visitors. It is also only 5 ½ hours from Bangkok. So what the X&#@Z are you waiting for?!!
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